A Birthday Celebration, First Steps and Free Sky TV ~ A Journey to the Top of Aconcagua

Thursday, 9 January 2014

Punta de Vacas to Pampa de Lenas

Hiking Time: 4 -5 hours            

Altitude: 2700m – 2950m

I woke early this morning knowing the day I had prepared so long for had finally arrived. Today we start hiking the 2nd of the Seven Summits I hope to climb. Breathing in the thought that I truly am living my dreams, I climbed out of bed so more than ready for all lay ahead of myself and the team. Our room was filled with a buzz of excitement, last long-lingering showers, putting on clean clothes and packing in the last of our stuff. The breakfast hall was filled with other teams excitedly chatting, some who had just returned from the mountain, and others like our team, getting ready to go. This morning we are also celebrating Simon’s birthday!

Awake early in the morning, this is the sight that greeted me outside on our little balcony.

Awake early in the morning, this is the sight that greeted me outside on our little balcony.

Judi (my Kili team mate and since friend) and I, clean for the last time and ready to trek!

Judi (my Kili team-mate and friend) and I, clean for the last time and ready to trek!

With the rest of the food, equipment and our Base Camp duffel bags separated for the journey on the mules, it was just me, my backpack and my one duffel bag. I can only hope I have packed everything I need for the walk into Base Camp, if not, well it was just too late now!

Jake, Simon, Judi, Bruno and Daniel excitedly getting ready to depart.

Jake, Simon, Judi, Bruno and Daniel excitedly getting ready to depart.

With breakfast eaten it was time to depart. All our luggage already packed into the trailer, the team piled into the shuttle bus that would take us to the start. But first, it was a stop at a place called Puente del Inca, which in Spanish means ‘The Inca’s Bridge.’ It is a natural arch that forms a bridge over the Vacas River. Scientists have speculated that the interaction of extreme elements like ice and hot springs were involved in the formation of the bridge. In the early 20th century there was a large thermal resort and spa that used the hot springs to cure certain illnesses and there was a railway station, which is still there, that tourists used to travel to the resort.

A little market out in the middle of nowhere at  Puente del Inca.

A little market out in the middle of nowhere at Puente del Inca.

Old abandoned railway tracks at  Puente del Inca.

Old abandoned railway tracks at Puente del Inca.

The amazing natural arch that forms a bridge over the Vacas River. A place where the sick came to be healed.

The amazing natural arch that forms a bridge over the Vacas River. A place where the sick came to be healed.

A little church across the river.

An old abandoned church across the river.

After a quick look around and taking some pics we hopped back in the shuttle, ready to ride. Except we discovered, two team members were missing. Simon and Daniel had wandered off to find a post office to post some post cards, which would you believe, they actually managed to find. (Considering we were practically in the middle of nowhere in the mountains this was a good find!)

Bruno, one of our guides, telling us they have a little surprise for us...

Bruno, one of our guides, telling us they have a little surprise for us…

Postcards posted, the boys appeared and we were back on the road again and our Inca guides had a little surprise in store for us. A short way down the road, we pulled over and once again we all piled out of the van. There before us in the distance was a sight that made my heart pound loudly. There in all her glory, she stood tall and strong, Aconcagua – all 6962m of mountain that soon we would be climbing.

This spot, with Aconcagua in the background, made the perfect spot for our “Day 1” photograph. As we do on our mountain trips, each day for a photograph we hold up fingers to show what day we are on. The team was game and our “Day 1” photo was snapped!

Aconcagua, snow capped, teasing us with what's to come.

Our first sighting of Aconcagua, snow-capped, teasing us with what’s to come.

Our teams "Day 1" photogrpph with Aconcagua watching over us in the background.

Our teams “Day 1” photograph with Aconcagua watching over us in the background.

After many photos were taken we were back on the road again, this time heading back in the opposite direction, heading towards Punta de Vacas, the entrance to Aconcagua Park and the start of our 360˚ route that would lead us up to the summit on one side of the mountain and we’d return again down the other side of the mountain, hence the 360˚ name.

It wasn’t before long we were turning off the road onto a dirt road and then I saw it, the sign that announced this was the entrance to the park. It’s hard to describe the excitement and the feelings that well up inside. After more than a year of training, saving, planning and talking about it, it was all finally unfolding right before my very eyes. I thought of Emma as I climbed out the van and silently asked her if she was ready for the next adventure? I knew it was a silly question, of course she was!

The sign that showed me we had arrived.

The sign that showed me we had arrived.

I was ready!

I was so ready to get going!

As our guides saw to whatever needed seeing to, we stood around taking photos of each other and putting our backpacks on. I stood looking in the direction we would walk. It was flat and the path would take us into the valley between the mountains rising on either side.

It was beautiful beyond words.

The start of the trail that would lead us up all the way to the summit.

The start of the trail that would lead us up all the way to the summit.

This was the way in, this was where we got to leave civilization behind.

This was the way in, this was where we got to leave civilisation behind.

Ready and waiting!

Ready and waiting!

Even though it was still early morning, the sun was hot and not a piece of skin was left uncovered by factor 50 sunblock. I am not a fan of hiking in extreme heat for obvious reasons, but I knew that within a matter of days the weather would be a completely different story so I made a mental note to enjoy the warmth of the sunshine on my skin while I could.

Then we were off, leaving behind the road and civilisation as we knew it.

Taking it all in, we started walking.

The team heading in...! There was no going back now.

The team heading in…! There was no going back now.

Winding our way into the mountains, walking alongside the river, soon we were engulfed by mountains rising up tall on either side of us. There was little in the way of shade and with every rest stop we had we would all clamber to sit in a tiny piece of shade offered by the large bolder we stopped at. By lunch time the sun was brutally hot and even the small trees we sat under offered little to no shade. So when we stopped, we stopped long enough to rest a bit, rehydrate, eat something, and then it was time to move on again.

The team making our way to our first camp for the night.

The team making our way to our first camp for the night.

Lisa enjoying a lunch break in the shade of a rock.

Lisa enjoying a lunch break in the shade of a rock.

The team, and Perky our mascot, some trying to find shade against a rock, enjoying a lunch break.

The team, and Perky our mascot, some trying to find shade against a rock, enjoying a lunch break.

Adrian and Bruno, two of our amazing guides on one of our breaks.

Adrian and Bruno, two of our amazing guides on one of our breaks.

The day was long and hot as we walked along the river’s edge. Soon the mules, carrying equipment and food came past for the first time kicking up the dust as they made their way past us.

The mules, carrying their loads, making their way to camp.

The mules, carrying their loads, making their way to camp.

The muleteers.

The muleteers.

The afternoon was soon filled with a few small hills to climb. With each up there was another down making way for yet another up again. In the heat of the day I wasn’t enjoying the ups so much. Finally as we climbed up over the next little hill, there in the distance our first camp in the mountain came into sight, Pampas de Lenas at 2950m. A mini city of tents stretched before us, home for the afternoon and night was in sight.

Off in the distance, a welcome sight, our first camp for the night ~ Pampa de Lenas

Off in the distance, a welcome sight, our first camp for the night ~ Pampa de Lenas

Simon, Judi and I (Kili team mates reunited on the mountain slopes again, hot but happy to have arrived at camp at last.

Simon, Judi and I (Kili team mates reunited on the mountain slopes again) hot but happy to have arrived at camp at last.

As the weather was so balmy the team was given the option of pitching tents or sleeping under the stars. I knew instantly there was nothing for me to decide, under the stars it would be! A few years ago when I hiked the Fish River Canyon in Namibia we got to sleep on a sandy bed under the stars, we aptly named our nightly ritual of lying on our backs watching the stars in the night sky, SKY TV. Not Sky TV you see on your television set, but out in nature, with a million stars burning brightly in the dark night sky.

Judi, Lisa and I shared a spot for the night under the stars. Here the girls are preparing their beds for the night.

Judi, Lisa and I shared a spot for the night under the stars. Here the girls are preparing their beds for the night.

After finding suitable sleeping spots, we laid out our beds consisting of our small inflatable mattresses and our sleeping bags and sorted through our stuff to get everything ready for after dark, then we headed to the communal area where we passed the time chatting as we waited for supper, which the muleteers were preparing on an open fire.

The muleteers in the "kitchen" preparing our dinner.

The muleteers in the “kitchen” preparing our dinner.

It wasn’t before long, the monopoly cards were on the table and Simon, Daniel, Judi and myself settled in to play. As the sun began to sink behind the mountains, a wind came up that chilled the air. As we played on, we had to scout around for some rocks so that we could place then on top of our cards on the table in order to stop them from blowing away because as those who have followed my blog for some time now know, nothing would stop us from getting our daily dose of monopoly in and little did we know then, but soon we would even begin to convert our team ‘bridge’ players too!

Playing Monopoly Cards, the most addictive game out there!

Playing Monopoly Cards, the most addictive game out there! Judi and Simon eyeing out Daniel to see what his next move is.

Playing Monopoly Cards as we waited for supper.

Playing Monopoly Cards, making my next move as we waited for supper.

After our dinner of huge proportions of meat and vegetables, we all headed back to our spots on the earth under the night sky.

Tonight, I fall asleep with my eyes open. I lie on my back drinking in SKY TV above me, wishing on countless shooting stars, pinching myself every now and again to remind myself that I was in Argentina and climbing Aconcagua.

As I fall asleep with my eyes wide open, I feel like the luckiest girl alive!

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~ All Photos By Me, Except of Course Those of Me. Thanks to team-mate, Simon Bates, for allowing me to use his video’s in this blog series. ~

*For those new to my blog, Emma was my childhood and lifelong best friend, the best friend I could ever hope to have had. Sadly she lost her fight against Cystic Fibrosis on the 18th May 1998 at the young age of 22. Emma is the inspiration behind my Seven Summit journey and the reason I’m Walking4Air; raising funds and awareness for Cystic Fibrosis so that we can help find a cure for this incurable illness and support those courageously facing this daily battle.*

The Journey Begins, Mendoza to Penitentes ~ A Journey to the Top of Aconcagua

Wednesday, 8 January 2014
Mendoza to Penitentes
Driving Time: 4 hours
Altitude: 700m – 2700m

Having arrived in Argentina a couple of days ago, I was excited at the prospect of a brand new country to explore and of course, a new mountain to climb! The team, from all around the world, were finally all together and excitement was in the air. Meeting for the first time, introductions and excited chatter could be heard from all around the hotel. Team dinners had been had, snow boots, crampons and ice-axes had been hired, drinks and lunches at side-walk cafés getting to know each other and final gear checks were done before we headed out onto the slopes of the Aconcagua, our goal, the summit at 6962m. It has been a busy few days in Mendoza, filled with all the excitement of what is still to come.

Our first dinner together as a team in Mendoza, Argentina

Our first dinner together as a team in Mendoza, Argentina

Everything in Argentina is super-sized, especially their steaks.

Everything in Argentina is super-sized, especially their steaks.

We spent this morning at the provincial offices sorting out our permits for the climb as no one is allowed into Parque Provincial Aconcagua without one. The process wasn’t meant to take long, around 45 minutes in fact, but it was not to be. Forms were filled out and officials started working through our paper work. But things weren’t happening as quickly as we expected and before we knew it hours were passing. The delay came in the form of one of our team mates not having the required signatures due to her being a minor. With her parents in Australia and time differences delaying everything further, it was decided that Alyssa, Steve (one of our expedition leaders) and Angel (our lead guide) would stay behind in Mendoza to sort out the red tape while the rest of the team moved on to Penitentes, where we are due to spend the night before heading out for our first day on the mountain.

Signing my life away... So ready for this extreme adventure!

Signing on the dotted line… So ready for my next extreme adventure!

With our mountain permits in hand, we are officially climbing Aconcagua tomorrow!

Reality was beginning to set in.

I was close to climbing the 2nd of my Seven Summits.

Permit in hand, I'm ready to climb.

Permit in hand, I’m ready to climb.

Most of the permits sorted, it was a dash back to our hotel. There was no time to finalise our packing, the vans that would take us to Penitentes were already waiting for us outside. Everything that was not already in our duffel bags was quickly thrown back in and we would have to sort it all out at our next hotel. Packing and repacking and packing again is something you get used to on the mountain. Actually, I’m lying, you never get used to it – at least I don’t. It is frustrating and painful and something that you are forever doing when on the mountain and at high altitudes, it is simply exhausting and a chore that constantly rears its head and is something that simply has to be done over and over and over again.

Outside our hotel, the two vans and trailers were loaded with food supplies, tents, equipment and all our duffel bags. The buzz was simply electric; we were almost on our way. All the training, hard work and planning was finally down to this. My journey is about to begin and excitement fills every fibre of my being.

The team split into the two vans, Simon, Daniel, Judi and I climbed into the one while Ronnie, Elizabeth, Hans, Jake and Lisa climbed into the other. We had about a 4 hour drive ahead of us but we stopped along the way at Uspallata, a little village which is found in a scenic location on the road which crosses the Andes between Mendoza and Santiago in Chile.

Driving to Penitentes, the views were jaw-dropping even if my photos don't capture the true beauty of what I was seeing.

Driving convoy to Penitentes, the views were jaw-dropping even if my photos don’t capture the true beauty of what I was seeing.

While some slept, I couldn't take my eyes of the scenery as we drove.

While some slept, I couldn’t take my eyes of the scenery as we drove.

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We stopped for lunch at a restaurant called La Estancia de Elías, a popular spot as the restaurant was packed. As I had already come to see, the portion sizes in Argentina are huge and once again meat was on the menu! No matter what you ordered it came in double, super-sized portions.

Team mates stretching their legs at our restaurant stop.

Team mates stretching their legs at our restaurant stop.

As I was saying, everything in Argentina is super-sized.

As I was saying, everything in Argentina is super-sized.

Enjoying a team lunch as we make our way to Penitentes.

Enjoying a team lunch as we make our way to Penitentes.

Two of our Argentinian guides, Adrian and Bruno and my two Kili team mates, Judi and Simon waiting for lunch.

Two of our Argentinian guides, Adrian and Bruno and my two Kili team mates, Judi and Simon waiting for lunch.

Our legs stretched and our tummies full, we hopped back into our vans for the last leg of the journey to Penitentes. While some slept as we drove, I couldn’t for a moment close my eyes. Endless mountains and driving through a never-ending canyon, my eyes wanted to take it all in. My eyes feasted on some of the most beautiful pieces of earth I have ever seen. As we drove I felt so blessed and grateful to be on this journey – to be living my dreams.

Mesmerised by the beauty as we drove, it wasn’t long before we pulled up at our new lodging for our final night.

Before we could all disembark, our vans and trailers were surrounded by a group of men wearing red t-shirts. They were part of the Inka team, a local Argentina company who specialises in trips on Aconcagua. They would be taking care of all the logistics and ensuring that our food and bags were on the mountain and that anything else that needed taking care of was taken care of allowing us to focus on our climb to the top.

The Inka guys springing into action as soon as we arrived, offloading the vans.

The Inka guys springing into action as soon as we arrived, offloading the vans.

Moving our duffel bags down into the basement of our overnight stop.

Moving our duffel bags down into the basement of our overnight stop.

Within no time, our luggage was in the basement of the hotel and would you believe it, I suddenly find myself repacking my duffel bags, again. This time we had to sort out everything with one duffel bag going straight up to Base Camp. This bag would contain all our extreme cold weather gear and everything we needed for our summit bid. We would not see this bag again for a few days so we had to pack carefully, ensuring that nothing we needed over the next few days landed up in that bag. Our 2nd duffel bag would contain everything we needed for the first few days – sleeping bags, toiletries and something warm for the evening.

Once again it was time to unpack and repack.

Once again it was time to unpack and repack.

Our bags sorted and packed once again, we made our way upstairs and checked into our hotel rooms. The hotel was like something out of Stephen King’s The Shining Hotel. Long dark corridors in an old building, passing some rooms you could hear the wind eerily whistling under the doors… All I know is that I don’t want to be wondering around these corridors alone, and late at night.

Our last night in comfort before heading out to the mountain.

Our last night in comfort before heading out to the mountain.

The boys saying hello from their room a few doors down.

The boys saying hello from their room a few doors down.

Just one side of the view from our hotel room.

Just one side of the view from our hotel room.

In the afternoon Simon, Daniel, Jake, Judi and I decided to do a little exploring and we headed down to the river running past our lodge. Lisa, crazy girl, chose to stay in her haunted room resting… (jokes were already flying around that we could hear a baby’s cry coming from Lisa’s room and added to this her room was really creepy with the wind whistling hauntingly under her door.) Down at the river bank, the river was dark, creamy brown in colour and reminded us of Nesquick chocolate milk and so became known as the “chocolate river” as we let our imaginations run wild as we imagined the Oompa Loompas doing their thing!

The contrast between the earth tones and the deep blue sky was just so beautiful.

The contrast between the earth tones and the deep blue sky was just so beautiful.

The boys  ready to go and play with the Oompa Loompas!

The boys ready to go and play with the Oompa Loompas!

Jake taking a moment to take in his surroundings as the four of us looked on.

Jake taking a moment to take in his surroundings as the four of us looked on.

The scenery around us as we stood at the chocolate river was jaw-droppingly beautiful. The grey, brown mountains cut into the perfectly clear blue sky, with the chocolate river running through it. I’m not even on the mountain yet and I can’t stop taking photos. Walking back up to the lodge had us all panting and puffing as we climbed the tiny hill we had taken down to the river. Suddenly you realise you are already at altitude and your body is already feeling the effects. At 2700m, in our travels we had already gained 2000m.

The little hill that got us all panting and puffing as we walked back to the hotel.

The little hill that got us all panting and puffing as we walked back to the hotel.

We have arrived, the views from our rooms are just exquisite and tomorrow we head out into the mountains. I am so ready to get out there!

We have arrived, the views from our rooms are just exquisite and tomorrow we head out into the mountains. I am so ready to get out there!

The rest of the afternoon was spent in Simon and Daniel’s room first doing some first aid on my finger as I had managed to get a splinter rather deep in my finger and then we wiled the hours away teaching some of our team mates how to play the Monopoly card game. Yes, Simon had managed to get the game and it was coming up the mountain again with us.

Tonight we enjoyed our last dinner on porcelain crockery eaten with silver cutlery. After dinner we stayed up late playing Monopoly before finally retiring to our rooms where we would all enjoyed our last hot showers, clean washed hair and warm, snug beds for from the tomorrow tents, hard stone covered ground and the mountain would become our home.

As we toasted at dinner tonight, here’s to safety and success…

Our journey has begun!

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~ All Photos By Me, except those taken of me of course ~

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